IN THE run up to Scotland’s Larder Live which will showcase the best of Scottish cheese at this year’s Royal Highland Show, we talk to food expert, Wendy Barrie.

She is the curator of Scotland’s Larder Live cookery theatre and founder of the Scottish Food Guide, and she highlighted the growing success of Scotland’s dairy produce and the role of the Royal Highland in introducing new cheeses to the marketplace.

Scottish food and drink is booming, and its exceptional quality is now recognised throughout the world. A sector that is gaining particular momentum is cheese – with exports from the UK surpassing £615mn in 2017– rising 23% from 2016, according to the latest figures from HMRC.

This is great news for cheese producers in Scotland and shows the global opportunities that are now available. The show not only gives these producers a fantastic platform on which to promote their products to this marketplace, but gives consumers a rare chance to taste the increasing range of cheeses on offer from Scotland.

Speaking about the selection on offer at the show, Wendy said: “Scotland has wonderful cheeses from the stormy Isle of Lewis to the lush pastures of Dumfries and Galloway. On Mull, the cows need to be hardy and their diet is supplemented with local distillery draff, giving a dance to their step and a zing to their cheese!

"The clover-rich pastures of the Moray Firth are home to Connage, and Royal Deeside to Cambus O’ May. St Andrews Farmhouse Cheese Company is Fife’s cheesemaker and Yester’s creamy range puts East Lothian on the cheese map and Ayrshire and Arran have fertile pastures perfect for Ayrshire cows.

“There is evidence of cheese production in Northern Europe from 8000 years ago and 19th century Scotland would have had hundreds of farmhouse cheeses – rural octogenarians will recall their granny making cheese!

"Fast forward through the Highland Clearances and cheese-making has been in terminal decline until a few determined descendants, plus new kids on the block, kick-started artisan cheese-making again. As a lover of farmhouse cheese, founding Scottish Cheese Trail was inevitable! No two cheeses are ever the same and when you start exploring it is a fascinating subject," said Wendy.

“Recent press has highlighted the appearance of our cheeses as far afield as France and USA and although cheesemakers’ skills are referred to, they rarely mention the breed and feed used, fundamental to cheese production. Cheese depends on a number of variables affecting milk quality: the animal – sheep/goat/cow; the breed – Jersey/Friesian/Ayrshire; the terroir – hill grazing/valleys/meadows, and the feed – grass/grain/silage.

"Next, the skills of the cheesemaker: handling milk; creating curds; forming cheeses and maturing them. Cheese-making is no easy gig – you need to be fit, dedicated, patient and fastidious – but the end results can be amazing!

“Both RHASS director John Sinclair, of Craigie’s and I have judged the World Cheese Awards and gained fascinating insights on how to evaluate cheese – scents of silage v hay; spiced varieties; maturity and moisture content … A heady evaluation of aromas and flavours!

“Yes, our cheeses can travel the world, but it is important to differentiate why a particular cheese is better or different – our Scottish soil and the breeds we use, how we feed them, all affect the taste and quality and give us our unique place on the world stage. Some will be excellent, some on a learning curve but all are subject to the vagaries of the human taste buds. Like wine, beauty will be in the beholder.

“This is ever apparent in the ways in which chefs use cheese as an ingredient. At the Royal Highland Show, Scotland’s Larder Live Cookery Theatre there will be an inspiring team of chefs on stage who support our nation’s cheese including: Neil Forbes, Tom Lewis, David Haetzman, Graeme Pallister, Paul Newman, Chris Rowley, Ian Campbell, AliBob and many more!

"It is going to be a feast for the eyes and the tastebuds and I would encourage anyone to go along and witness the versatility of this incredible ingredient. You really don’t want to miss it!”

A visit to the many cheese exhibitors at the Show is also highly recommended. Yester Farm Dairies chose the Royal Highland Show to introduce their retail range of soft cheeses, mozzarella, crème fraiche and set soured cream to the market in 2016.

At the 2017 show it won Gold for soft cheese in the cheese and dairy competition and this year plans to launch a new 'Whole Milk Fruit Yogurt' at the Show.

Jackie McCreery, who owns Yester with her husband, Simon, added: “The Royal Highland Show plays a major role in our product promotions and we are again delighted to be introducing new products at this year’s show. It offers an unique opportunity to take our products direct to the marketplace and get invaluable feedback to further expand our product range.

"As a business, we are committed to exhibiting and are proud to attend as part of East Lothian Food and Drink’s presence.”