by Janice Hopper

FIVE years ago if you wanted a cup of tea it’s likely you’d reach for a brew from India, China, Sri Lanka or Malaysia, but it’s now possible to sip a local cuppa. 
There are currently 12 tea growers in Scotland - but who are they, and how do they compete in a competitive market and handle the nation’s renowned climate?
The first tea producer in Scotland was Tam O’Braan at the Dalreoch Farm Estate, in Amulree, known as the Wee Tea Plantation. He planted his first seedlings in 2011, harvested the first commercial crop in 2013 and it hit the shops in 2014. Dalreoch now has four teas on the market including Rose Smoked Black Tea, Dalreoch Smoked White and a Spicy Highland Chai. Being the first tea grower in Scotland was certainly seen as an unusual career path.
Before going into tea, Tam and his wife ran an agricultural technology business, but the plan had always been to settle in Scotland to raise a family. 
“We moved into Dalreoch looking to build a family business. A tea plant will last for a minimum of 70 years, so I do hope our wee brood of four children like tea.”
Tam continues: “In the first instance being taken seriously was one of the biggest challenges. We wanted a product that would be more than an oddity. High-end single estate loose leaf tea was always going to be the way forward.”
Dalreoch was quick to establish a reputation. By 2015, in only its second season, its smoked white tea was stocked by prestigious French tea emporium Marriage Frères. It went on to win the coveted top prize at the Salon de Thé awards in Paris, gaining global recognition, but one of the main queries was, how on earth do you grow tea in Scotland?
It’s obviously challenging, but Tam explains that whilst the seedlings need to be kept warm against the harshest Scottish winters, once they’re slightly more mature, the Scottish climate works well. 
Bear in mind that the Darjeeling region is in the Himalayan mountains and Malaysian tea is common in the elevated Cameron Highlands, so it makes sense that tea can potentially be grown in the hills of Scotland. 
Like any harvest, the earth, water, air and elevation shape the taste and abundance of the crop. Perthshire offers spring water, fresh air and rich soil, creating a distinct flavour.  
As word spreads, The Wee Tea Plantation suddenly isn’t so wee any more. It now collaborates with other Scottish tea producers such as Isle of Mull Tea and the Garrocher Tea Garden.  
Isle of Mull, based on a ten acre croft, has just introduced Scotland’s first matcha – a Japanese-style green tea created by grinding leaves into a bright green powder. 
Owners Liz and Martyn Gibson only started planting in 2013, yet theirs was one of four Scottish teas gifted by Nicola Sturgeon to Barrack Obama when she visited America in 2015. Praise indeed for any new business.
Angela Hurrel runs Garrocher Teas in Dumfries and Galloway. Like many farmers she was looking for additional income streams alongside the traditional fruit, vegetable and herb offering – tea was an exciting crop to be able to offer the public. 
Other new teas emerging are Deer Vista tea in Aberdeenshire, Buittle tea in Dumfries and Galloway, Dalguise tea in Perthshire, Guisachan tea in Invernesshire, Grey Mare’s tea in Peeblesshire, Isle of Arran, Lismore and Orkney teas.
These fledgling growers are venturing into new territory and need assistance, and this comes in the form of the Scottish Tea Growers’ Association (STGA). Farmers share their resources and experiences, and they buy and sell as a group. 
Tam adds: “We organise joint research trips to visit global tea growing regions. This year’s project was an authentic Milk Oolong and we went to Taiwan to learn exactly how the very best is made.”
“The Wee Tea Plantation is where I grow my tea but it’s also Scotland’s first tea factory. This facility is intended to be used by all STGA members while we get the industry off the ground. Perthshire is ideally placed, being the geographic centre of Scotland, since we need to start processing the leaf within eight hours of picking.”
The STGA also helps promote the tea to the best establishments across the world, but competing with the economies of scale and low costs of foreign competitors will always be a challenge. Looking at the price tags – Darreoch’s smoky white tea (£35 for 15g), Isle of Mull’s matcha (£30 for 15g) and Garreoch’s Grey tea (£35 for 15g) – and it’s clear the producers aren’t competing on price.  
The growers would argue that Scottish tea is a quality product that’s unique in flavour; it’s rare and exclusive like a good whisky.  Food miles are another draw – buy Scottish tea and you’re not only supporting local jobs, but the tea is only transported down the road instead of clocking up thousands of air miles. It’s not your average cuppa.
“To be at the start of a new crop, a new harvest for Scotland is hugely exciting,” adds Tam.
“The Wee Tea Plantation and friends wouldn’t change what they’re doing for all the tea in China.”