Sir, – The 'Disgruntled Drover' (letters in The SF, April 21), calls for 'precise, accurate, truthful and clear labelling' for the Scottish beef and lamb sector. The writer claimed that this 'seems to work surprisingly well with whisky'.

What we are talking about here is the provenance of Scotland’s food and drink, if 'Scotch' is to command a premium.

To put this to the test, I recently purchased Scotch lamb from Marks and Spencer’s foodhall, in Dundee, Before going to the till, I asked an assistant if she could tell me which farm this lamb was from. This was not a problem a note of the code on the lamb, which carried the Scotch Lamb PGI logo, as well as my phone number was taken.

Two days later, I received a call from M and S to inform me the lamb came from Muirkirk Farm, in Ayrshire. So in this case the claim 'from farmers we know and trust' was a truthful and honest statement. The farmer must have met every assurance standard and then more. So full marks to Quality Meat Scotland, QMS, on provenance and traceability.

Now, can the same be said of Scotch whisky? The Drover seems to think so. If only this was true – but sadly it is not.

The Scottish Government, so far, are content to allow labelling regulations that allow French maize, or English barley to be labelled 'Product of Scotland'. The Drover may think his favourite Islay malt is the real deal. but is it?

Well at least the wonderful people at Bruichladdich understand the value of provenance and every single bottle is made only from Scottish barley. Some other Islay distilleries have chosen a less honourable decision and ship in barley from England as it is marginally cheaper than road haulage from the east of Scotland.

So, how 'Scottish' is the Drover’s favourite Islay malt?

The lobbying group, 'Not in the Spirit' believes when it says 'Product of Scotland' on the label, then the produce should be Scottish.

We are asking the Scottish Government to amend current labelling regulations so that the country of origin of all main ingredients is stated on the label. Until this happens, what is the point of quality assurance schemes, such as SQC, when some less than ethical distillers can source cheaper non-assured grain. This, in turn, devalues cereals grown in Scotland .

Every July, my family take a house in the Charente region of France, where most of the maize for some Scottish distilleries is grown. The French grow crops as far as the eye can see and by taking on poor quality land elsewhere, they comply with EU 'Greening' regulations.

Their oilseed rape is grown so close to hedges that the side knife also acts as a hedge trimmer. The French also receive more generous subsidies and have far less onerous regulations.

To rub salt in the wound, my French farming chum, although very grateful, is bemused that any Scottish Government allows him to supply Scottish distilleries. It seems to him like sacrilege as he asks why is there no 'Appellation Controlee' for Scotch whisky?

Good question. Over to you Nicola!

Gordon Rennie

'Not in the Spirit',

Stenton,

St Monans,

Fife.